Adjust power steering box freeplay

Worn suspension bushes disguised free play on steering wheel. With the more tight feeling from undercarriage, and perhaps especially the panhard rod, a significant play in steering became evident. Steering was precise, but had to work a bit on the steering wheel. Procedure is this:

Jack vehicle up front, axle stand is better than the extreme tilt you get if only jacking under the front differential.

Have an assistant turn the steering wheel left to right, fast and just like wobbling. Check for any loose connections in the steering components (all links, balljoints, etc.). If no play is evident, and the freeplay on the steering wheel is more than 9,5mm (measured at the rim of steering wheel), the steering box should be adjusted.

For improved access you might want to remove top intercooler hose and hose from air filter, but this is not really needed.

In centre of the steering box there is a center spindle, visible as a allentype/unbraco held in place with a 19mm nut - this nut is used to lock the spindle. Find the correct allen/unbraco-key and hold it tight when trying to release the 19mm nut. It usually sits quite good - I had to open it with a socket and spanner, thus not being able to hold the spindle. Turn the spindle clockwise with your allen/unbraco key, noting carefully where you started and how much you've been turning. Have your assistant turn the steering wheel left/right. Continue tightening until you have about 9mm freeplay on the steering wheel. Hold spindle with allen/unbraco key while tightening with your 19mm spanner.

Turn the steering wheel slowly from left to right , trying to find any "binding" or points where it does not turn smoothly, from full lock to full lock. If you find the steering box "binding", back off the allen/unbraco key a bit and check if it works smoothly. I turned the key in 45° increments.  Damage to the steering box can occur if the spindle is tightened too much. Check that freeplay is less than 9mm (but there must be a bit of freeplay - if not, you'll feel the wheel binding when turning).

Put the removed hoses back on. Lower vehicle from its stands and enjoy a firmer steering on your test ride!

Steering damper

The OEM steering damper were replaced by a Bilstein steering damper - an extremely expensive option (at ~£59 you can get 3 OEM for the price of one Bilstein). Removing/refitting is dead easy, just make sure you stack the rubbers and washers in correct order, and make sure the dustcover-end of the damper is pointed towards the middle of the vehicle. The Bilstein steering damper were prepared for an allen-key/unbraco on the studs, so holding the damper while tightening nut was dead easy. Why don't all manufacturers do that???

Prepare to enjoy your improved steering comfort!

Renewing PAS pump

The PAS pump broke down in a spectacular blast of rubber fumes from the drivebelt when the pulley stopped in a split second and the crank of course continued to do its work. A 200tdi PAS pump has #NTC8288, and are different from other Rover PAS pumps. You'll need a new drivebelt, and 2,9 litre of ATF to refill. Manual states you should remove a heatshield under/at side of PAS-pump. This is not necessary. 

This is a good time to renew drivebelts, hoses and/or clamps.

Haynes manual also state you should jack vehicle and place it on axle stands. I did not do it, as I could not see any reason for it - and I didn't want the additional height while working deep into the engine compartment.

Remove PAS-pump

Remove drivebelts.

There are three bolts on PAS-pump pulley - remove those and withdraw pulley.

Empty ATF-oil from system. Put papers/rags on floor as you will spill ATF. I did it this way: poured from reservoir into a cup. Put a huge tray to trap spilling oil under engine, released both hoses from reservoir and let them drain into tray. Released hose from pump - then even more came pouring from what seemed to be emptied hoses.

I removed alternator as well for improved access (you will have to loosen top pivot bolt and remove the lower bolt anyway (common bolt PASpumpbracket/alternator). If removed: make a scetch how the electrics is connected.

There are three M8 bolts on the PASpump bracket running into engine/heatshield. Remove those and withdraw pump. More ATF will pour out of #2 hose on the back of the pump (lower hose).

Put it on a workbench. Remove hose. Make a scetch of how the bracket is fitted to the PAS-pump. Remove the four M6 bolts holding the bracket and PAS pump together. Wash pulley, bracket and hoses thoroughly, and inspect for wear. This is a good time to renew suspect hoses and clamps. Also wash everywhere you can while you have made a better access in engine compartment.

Now you're ready to refit a new PAS pump. Up to this point took me an hour and a half - all inclusive.

Refitting PAS pump

Refitting the PAS pump is, as they say, a reverse of pulling the lot apart:

Refit bracket to PAS pump (or vice versa...) - using thread lock on the bolts. This is one of the points where you'll love the schetches made up, so  the bracket is fitted correctly. Fit the hose on the offside of the pump before mounting the pump on engine.

Offer it up, and fit the top bolt, making the PAS/bracket hanging on the engine, fit the two bolts in the sliding portion of the bracket. Fit the hose from PAS box. Fit the pulley. Slide drivebelt alternator/PAS pump over the pulley + the crank/waterpump/PAS drivebelt. Tighten the PAS drivebelt as specified in manual. 

Offer up alternator (if this was removed), and fit the long pivot bolt on top - do not fit the nut yet. Fit the electrics - this is also a time where you'll be happy you made that schetch which clamp goes where... Fit the heatshield and then the nut. Fit the common bolt PASbracket/alternator. Tighten a bit. 

Tighten the drivebelt as specified in manual. Fit intercooler hoses, turbo hose etc.

Connect hoses to the reservoir - I filled them up with ATF before fitting. Fill reservoir.

After having renewed the PAS pump and refilled reservoir to the top, you are still far away from having an operative steering pump: lots of air is trapped, and the pump itself probably still doesn't have any ATF-oil. You're into deep bleeding.

Bleeding PAS system

Make sure the steering wheels are pointing straight ahead. Having topped up the PAS reservoir, start engine (using an assistant if possible), and be prepared to fill fast as the level can sink very rapidly. Continue topping up until level settles.

Let engine warm up at idle speed - do not increase revs. When engine has reached operating temperature, you're ready for bleeding.

Loosen bleed screw (11mm) and let ATF pollute compartment in a steady flow until it is free from bubbles. Remember topping up reservoir.

Have an assistand turn steering wheel all the way to the left, and hold it there for a few seconds while you release airbubbles through bleed screw. Turn over to the other side, same thing. Watch for leaks all over the place.

This is the point where I made my day: a spectacular fountain of red dyed ATF oil pouring out of the filler reservoir and the bleed screw... Working on my own, I forgot to fit the filler cap, and left the bleeding screw open while I turned the steering wheel to full lock - and held it. The fountain reached the roof of the garage, blasting onto the bonnet, pouring everywhere around engine compartment, and a gigantic splash all over the floor, Haynes manual, tools, toolchest, and some drops on the Moto Guzzi and Ford Focus. Do NOT attempt to do this at home. Full lock builds a formidable pressure, and without the filler cap and an open bleeding screw made the garage into a real mess.

Check drivebelts for tightness before closing bonnet, and check again after driving some kilometers if your drivebelts where renewed (manual states exactly how many kilometers).

Steering grunt

The old PAS pump had this "steering grunt". After renewing  pump, the grunt has disappeared.

Sticking steering UJs

Of course it should happen while under way on a long 660 kilometer trip:

Symptom: The steering wheel seemed to stick, especially when turning left. Kind of binding at 11 o'clock, 9 o'clock, 7 o'clock. Tried not to turn the wheel that direction, but... Then it seemed to be binding and sticking also to the right: at 1 o'clock, 3 o'clock. Similar thing experienced several months earlier, but then binding only a 1 o'clock, and disappearing after a bit driving. This time it turned out to grow harder and harder to turn the wheel. 

Diagnosis: First thought it was connected to the renewal of PAS pump (only a few weeks earlier), so checked tension of drivebelts and bled at PAS box, but in such instances as described, I was told that 90% of cases is Universal Joints in steering shaft seizing. Which turned out to be correct: one of the UJ were almost stuck: binding, not moving freely. To reveal this, the steering intermediate shaft had to be removed. Were allowed to work in a Auto-garage. Took two hours to complete, then OK. This is the part of the steering column running from bulkhead to PAS-box.

Job done this way:

Remove turbo-to-intercooler hose for improved access.

Remove the three clamping bolts (13mm nuts)

Use a large screwdriver to bend out the slot so sliding on the slined portion of shafts is possible. Spray lots of penetrating oil onto the splines so it is easier to release the shaft.

Mark the shaft with a felt pen or similar, because there is a cut-out on steering column and PAS input shaft to allow the bolt - if you slide it onto the shafts only one spline wrong, the bolt won't fit!

I found it was easier to slide the shaft forwards, i.e. bend up and down while trying to force the shaft forwards. This is really tricky - a rocking motion is necessary to release it, and at the same time you have to push it on the splines. This  is the point where you'll get angry at your Disco.... Suddenly it is released - but only after a long time of messing. There are three sliding portions: UJ/splining closest to bulkhead, UJ/splining at middle, and UJ/splining at PAS box. These three are the ones you will have to move to release it.

Then slide rearwards at PAS box.

Shaft out reveals a UJ nearly  not moving when working on it at a workbech. Used lots of penetrating oil onto the UJs and bent forwards/backwords for such a long time until it freed up.

Put back on: Use the marked point as reference, and slide onto PAS input shaft. Check that you will be able to put through the clamping bolt. This is NOT easy! Then release the bolt again, to force the UJ as far forward as possible. Again you'll have this tricky thing of sliding the UJ onto the splines. And again you'll be calling your Disco names... Rocking motion and pushing is still the answer, as I found out.

Then turn steering column until marks align - and try entering the intermediate shaft. Suddenly you get it right...

Clampings bolts on, preferrably using new nyloc nuts.

Hose back on. VOILA!

A new intermediate shaft or new UJs are supposed to be fitted as soon as possible, because once worn to the point they're sticking, they will seize again whatever you do. It's a saftey issue, as you might end up not being able to turn the steeringwheel!

A "new" 2.hand shaft ordered from www.Offroadbutikk.com , a replacement from a newer vehicle. This one has some features making it better suited than the old one: It is all aluminium, has a collapsible joint (preventing shaft from protruding into cocpit if crashing), there is a sliding spline allowing for easier removal/refitting, and most important: there's rubber seals in the UJs to prevent ingress of dirt. Reverse side of the coin, is that you'll have to recenter steering wheel, as the cut-outs are 170degrees different. 

Removing and Recentering Steering Wheel

Recentering steering wheel might be needed, but before you do it: Make sure the drop arm points straight ahead while roadwheels points straight ahead. The straight forward position of the drop arm is the only position where the PAS-box does not use hydraulic pressure from the PAS-pump to pull the wheels (known as zero-backlash). Thus, if you recenter the steering wheel when drop arm is pointing slight to one side, you will have to constantly counter the servo to keep the wheels straight. Point is: steering wheel shall point where drop arm goes, not where the wheels point! 

Make sure wheels point straight ahead. Pry off the LR-logo from steering wheel. Removing and recentering steering wheel is ususally dead easy, though some have experienced difficulty pulling it off. Thor Gunnar Bakkerud has made this steering wheel puller. The steering wheel is strong, so I just removed the 27mm Jesus nut, the serrated washer - and pulled, then tried som knocking with the back of my hands on the reverse side of the wheel - after some pulls and knocks, it slid off its splines. Recenter the plastic "ring" inside the hub (indicator disabler) - this is the one that turns of the indicator when steering wheel recenters. Recenter steering wheel, and make sure the plastic "tap" hits the slot in the plastic ring. Push in. Washer on. Nut on. 38NM torque. LR logo back on. 

Start all over again as still isn't perfect....

More help

These sites might help you with steering related problems and improvements:

Wheel wobble and imprecise steering from Internet LandroverClub

LR Tech bulletin covering wheel wobble

Steering damper relocation: Make up your own cheap steering damper relocation kit, moving it to the Defender position.

Here's another link to relocating steering damper - from Discoweb.

Replacing draglink balljoint