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© Text and Photo: Frode H. Haaland |
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Custom Mudflap Mounting Panel |
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A knocking/rattling noise from the rear end of the vehicle was easily identified as a rotten mudflap panel (#13 in drawing below). The top end had rusted through, and the panel was held in situ by the lower bracket only. All the water are splashed onto the bracket, and as the panel is quite thin, it is not uncommon for these to rust through. |
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New ones aren't especially expensive (at ~£20), but as I could not get hold of one when I needed it, I decided to custom make a new one out of thick rubber. |
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| Removing the remnants of bolts, brackets and panel was time consuming, but nothing an angle grinder couldn't sort - removing the three upper bolts using sockets was highly unsuccessful... |
| A piece of 5mm rubber was cut to size
(230 x 320mm) - the rubber cost me NOK35,- (£2.50) and are enough for
making up two mudflap panels. Adding in two pieces of steel, and it
is still far cheaper than a OEM steel mudflap panel - guess £1,50 for one
side.
2 pieces of flat steel were made up as upper and lower brackets - and these were coeated in Owatrol penetrating oil. |
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The lower bracket (fitting mudflap itself), also secures the rear wing. This bracket were made ~2cm longer than standard, to force the wing further outboard. In this way, it enables fitment of larger and wider wheels. In fact, it is reported that forcing wing out this way, enables fitting 235/85-16 wheels without any trimming of wing (though with taller springs)! | ![]() |
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After a bit of fiddling and adjusting, the rubber was drilled and then attached using the new brackets. The finished results looks quite neat, will not rust as a steel panel, and might also give less noise when water and gravel are thrown up. Also, the panel should enable a bit more room for bigger tyres, as the OEM mudflap panel actually protrudes forwards, giving less room for larger than stock tyres. This design gives the largest available space while still keeping a mudflap panel. |
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