March 2000: Renewed timing belt since the Disco was new to me - can't afford a broken timing belt - which means major and costly operations on the engine: New car = New timing belt - just to be sure. Includes new roller bearings for the belt; that's probably more important than the belt itself.. Timing belt not worn at all - could have lived for several years, but peace of mind is worth quite a lot in cash and work... If yours is a 300tdi, you should check for premature wear.

What you need

Items to change while your'e there (do think I got it all on the list, but check yourself):

• timingbelt

• tensioner roller bearing

• timing belt cover gasket

• oil seal to crankshaft (into timing belt cover)

• water pump gasket

• thermostat-housing gasket and swap bolts for studs (thermostat housing)

• coolant (to be replaced every second year, i.e. should suit fine to renew them today - won't it???)

• flushing cooling/heating system

• if drivebelts for power steering and alternator are to be renewed, this is the time as they are going off anyway

• if any rubber hoses are worn, this is the time to renew them.

Most important piece in process is a proper manual - Factory or Haynes, for novices like me to get the procedure; for everyone to get the proper torque-figures. Haynes states simpler tools than Factory: they explain job with tools to be found in "every DIY garage".

You will also need at least 2 torque wrenches, probably 3 of them... The crankshaft pulley is to be tightened to 340NM+loctite - and you will probably not have such at hand. You will need one for more common torques, and when you are tightening the roller bearing, you will need the type with indicators, i.e. the cheap and elsewhere useless one. You insert the 1/2" squarehead of the wrench into a hole in the mounting plate of the bearing, and DRAW 'till the indicators gives you the correct reading. Then you tighten with another torque-wrench on the center of the bearing. Difficult to explain, easy when you see the items ("easier done than said"). 

You'll need a decent set of sockets, spanners, screwdrivers and so on (needs some 10 kilos or something like that...).

You'll also need a large container for the coolant, it is quite a lot... It WILL drip oil and coolant and all sort of shit, so have rags at hand and carefully position the container. Find something to collect it in until proper delivery - not to be spilled in sewage.

When removing all the bolts for the timing belt cover, insert them into some cardboard in the correct sequence - they're of different lengths and need to be fitted in its correct place - confusing thing.

While you're there:

* Swap the thermostat bolts for studs with nuts on them - the bolts tend to break as they seize in the aluminium thermostat block - and removing a broken bolt is a real pain. This is same concept as on exhaustmanifold: if the stud seizes in block, you'll just remove the nut so it's no problem anyway.

* Flush radiator and heater element thoroughly. If coolant is overdue changing, or has been overdue at some point in vehicles history, there will be deposits restricting waterflow - impeding both cooling of engine and heating of cabin.

Locking engine to prevent it from turning

Haynes manual states that injection pump should be locked in position with a 4,7 mm twisted drill (easy & cheap to obtain; use 4,5 or 5mm, or the correct imperial-size drill: 4,7mm). Haynes also states that you lock  the flywheel (through wading plub hole) into a certain slot with a certain bolt (needs drilling a hole in a wading plug, inserting a thin twisted drill of a certain size in it = difficult). Last item not needed, just roll under vehicle to check that the slot is still visible.

Opening crankshaft bolt

Opening the bolt for crankshaft damper (and retightening it) pose main problem: Tightened to 340NM + loctite. Think it was a 32mm socket to fit. Did not manage to open it with pressurized air driven equipment: no chance using ordinary tools - just slipping on the clutch. So I opened with the help of startmotor:

1. Snap off the electric clamp on the rear of injectionpump (to prevent it from starting)

2. Place the wrench on crankshaft bolt, letting the arm of the wrench "rest" on the chassis

3. Put the battery back on: and let the starter just flick for a fraction of a second - it is enough when you hear it starts turning.

Retightened by two people "hanging" on a large hammer put into the crankshaft pulley and a huge wrench. 

This link shows how to make a crankshaft bolt tool, enabling you to hold the crankshaft damper/pulley tight while you're using a lazy bar to open the bolt. Nice thing to make up and save some money from purchasing dedicated 200tdi tools from LR og Bushwhacka!

Refitting everything, a bolt for the thermostat housing broke... shit happens...and these tend to break, which is why you'd better replace them as soon as possible using studs instead of bolts!!! 

Procedure

This happens when you're changing the timing belt: 

For me, this operation was first time with a wrench beneath the bonnet of a Land Rover. Took 10 hours to complete (!!!), incl. breaks and getting an overview of the Disco's engine-bay. Not to difficult, but needs time, some equipment, and generally being attentive.

Second and last item destroyed while servicing: tightened radiator filling cap while doing something else...broke of course... needs only finger tightening. 

 For more details on the process, check these instructions (text in norwegian) and NLRK tech-pages (text in norwegian).

Cleaning the Intercooler 

The intercooler over time gets contaminated with oilresidue. Handbook states cleaning with ICI Genklene at 80.000km. The intercooler is basically a radiator, and it's an air-to-air-system. The stated proprietary cleaner, is difficult to obtain, but any radiator cleaner can be used - though it's a problem that most cleaners are supposed to be used i conjunction with water and engine running... So I used white spirit, but soon found I needed so much of the liquid to fill the intercooler, so I turned to paraffin from the house tank... First filled half a liter of white spirit, and started shaking and turning upside down, downside-up - really letting the stuff run through the small holes in the intercooler. It turned dark black immediately. Then I filled it fully with paraffin, and just left it there for half an hour. Then poured out some of it, and started shaking again. There was a lot of oil built up. Then flushed both ways with a hose - long. Neither paraffin nor white spirit is good for engine air, so making it clean is important. Drying took a day and a half in hot sun. Some roverists say they put the intercooler back in, letting the turbo push air into the intercooler, but not connecting it to the engine. This allows the turboair to dry out the intercooler.

To remove intercooler, you:

• Remove all hoses to intercooler (up and down).

• Remove the two nuts on radiator cowl. Lift it off from bottom, and push it rearwards over the fan (can be easier to get access if you remove fan).

• Remove radiator top.

• Lift out intercooler element. This is tricky part: getting the lower, bent part of pipe passed the radiator cowl. Brute force to the cowl is needed to make it slip past.

Drying out the intercooler takes time, and suspect the engine to stay in your garage for two days. This is good time to clean cyclone engine breather, as you use paraffin and because this one also has to dry out before refitting.

Clean Cyclone Engine Breather

This one is fitted onto top of engine, right hand side, into the valve-cover. It cleans oil before letting that oil go back onto the valves. It deposits all kinds of residue, and of course sticky oil. Release top and bottom hoses, and release the 1 or 2 bolts holding it onto top of engine. Withdraw it. Soak in paraffin for some time, flush it with water, and dry it out.

Inlet/Exhaust Manifold Gasket

There were this leak building up on inlet manifold, leaving traces of oil below inlet #1 cylinder, and also a slight change in exhaust note. 

There is a common gasket for inlet and exhaust. Job is basically very simple, though it takes some time to complete, and it is extremely cramped for some of the studs. Took me 4 hours, and about three of these hours were working on only a few of those studs - getting them in or out, or trying to stop them from getting in or out. Get some new studs before commencing job, and also high-temp antiseize compound. 

First remove turbo- and intercooler hoses. Haynes (or was it LRmanual?) states removal of turbo itself, but this is not necessary - though it might be helpful when doing some of the studs.

Remove dipstick bracket and remove dipsticktube it (there's a nut where it runs into engine) or bend it away. Remove inlet plenum chamber. There's visible nuts up top, and (almost) invisible bolts/nuts below (middle of the pelenum). Check drawings in manual carefully to find the two lower middle ones.

With inlet plenum removed, you can access exhaust manifold. Remove the nuts on this one as well. Especially the nut at middle is difficult to access and work on. You'll probably use more time on that one only, than all of the others combined.

Some of the studs will be left in engine top, some will probably come out with the nut. Remove manifold bracket. It is a two-piece one, and Haynes has mocked up which bolts you will have to remove (as I sure realized!). The two running into engine must be removed, while the two forward facing can be left where they are (at least that's what I found out). Loosen dipstick bolt (where it runs into engine) and swing dipstick tube for improved access,

Bend exhaust manifold away, and remove rest of the studs. Remove gasket and inspect where it blew. Clean gasket area to secure a tight fit for new gasket. 

Now's the time to check the studs - and you might be happy if you have a spare one or two... Renew suspect ones, clean the rest, and use anti-seize on them before trying to enter them into engine top. Put on gasket, using some of the easy-accessed top studs.

You will have to use a nut+a spring washer+a counter nut to be able to enter it into engine top. This is very difficult as it is so cramped - especially middle one. When you have one stud in, you will have to remove the two nuts and the spring washer...which is also cramped, and some of the studs will come easily out again... Just work on it, at some point in history, the stud will be in and nuts off...

Offer up exhaust manifold, put on bracket, bolt bracket loosely. 

Nuts on the studs - and then it's the d*** lower middle one again. This will again take up most of your time. Tighten what you can access with a torquewrench, rest (of course including the lower middle one again) with a combination spanner. 

Tighten manifold bracket fully. Tighten dipsticktube nut.

Offer up inlet plenum, and bolt it. Tighten to specified torque. Hoses back on. 

And don't you say I didn't warn you it takes a lot of time with some of those studs!!!!

Thermostat Housing

On 200tdi's, the thermostat housing is secured with three M6 bolts. The galvanic processes and heat-exposure, brittles the bolts - and then they easily snap when they seize in its housing (as it did for Otto when timing belt was being renewed). 

The broken bolt was removed (was in fact quite easy as soon as thermostat housing was on the workbench. Three new studs were made from a length of M6, and these were used instead of bolts. This makes two possibilities for removing: either the nut opens, or the stud does (same as on an exhaust manifold). 

It's advisable doing this before any of the bolts do break...then it's only a matter of unbolting/rebolting. Mind you: The do tend to break!!!

Radiator Plastic Cap

On top of the radiator, there's a plastic filler cap - which easily snaps if put too much torque on it - which means putting any torque on it. If you break one, you're part of a long queue...the caps do snap...

The plastic ones weak and snap, but they're also expensive - a killing combination. But there's good news: Any plumbing store can help you finding a cheap brass replacement - it's a 1/2" NPT threading. Bring the old one, and remember to get a rubber sealing ring as well. Shouldn't cost you more than 25NOK or £2 for plug and rubber ring. You'll find same brass item on an old Range Rover. 

The 300tdi use 2 - two - plastic caps: One in same position on the radiator as on a 200tdi, and one on top of the thermostat; replace both of them with brass from plumbers store.

Lower Radiator Hose

The lower radiator hose of a Disco 200tdi connects low radiator, waterpump and expansion tank - running into a "T". The thinner gauge of the T, the expansion tank lower hose, is vulcanized onto the thick one. They do not stock these anywhere else than retailers of Solihull products - and if you need one, they will probably have to order one for you. 

Get a plumber to make a "T" for you (for instance from copper-tubing or whatever, and solder the two gauges together. Then you will be able to use any coolant rubber hose of the correct gauge obtainable  even from some petrol stations, not having to rely on Solihull at all. Could save your day some day from getting stuck in BFU.

Rattling Air Cleaner Box

The air cleaner box is secured onto the inner wing by four pieces of rubber mountings. These tend to disintegrate, and the airbox moves with its mountings: rattles.

New mountings are pretty expensive, close to £3 each, but it's worthwhile fixing as soon as one of them starts disintegrating - they will eventually work loose all of them if one works loose. Any rubber mounting of the correct height and correct gauge spindle will do: 6mm spindles, and 20mm high rubber (Biltema har slike til under 30kr. stykket: delenr.63-102).

Simple job: 10mm socket into wheel well, and a (think it was 24mm) socket onto the remaining parts of the mounting inside engine compartment. Then unscrew from the wirestraps-mountings. 

Exhaust 

Summer 2001: A strange hissing noise from the rear section of the vehicle is easily diagnosed as a shot rear exhaust section. There was a rather big hole on top of the upper part of the exhaust - from a side view it looked OK, but looking at it from an angle more up top, the hole was easily apparent.

Summer/autumn 2002: Otto has been low on power for quite some time, seeming to run out of gust very early when going uphill, not being ready for taking over other cars on the highway. I've been thinking bad fuel, old fuelfilter, old airfilter, chafing intercooler hoses, bad turbo - and bad injectors. Having checked everything but the injectors, a rattling and banging noise under the floor gave a big relief: It's the exhaust. The rear exhaust section renewed a year ago, and now the centre silencer calls it a day. So now a new silencer were installed... Things improved, but the injectors will have to be checked anyway... 

This gives some second thoughts - for the price of rear section last year and this year a centre silencer, I could have got a stainless steel sports exhaust from Rimmer Bros... The sports exhaust does not have the centre silencer, making it cheaper than their stainless steel standard exhaust sets - but should also give some more power and probably also a bit more noise...hopefully not a problem when MOTting... But with a rather new rear silencer, I am not in the mood to invest in even more of that exhaust, so a mild steel centre silencer will have to do this time...

Injectors

The diesel injectors are said to have a working life of 100-120.000km. At 195.000km and still the original injectors (I guess the original, that is...), I had them checked to see if they were the reason for power loss.

Agricultural/Tractor workshops have the facilities for testing, and they charge you smth like half an hours work.  First of all, you release the banjo-bolts on each injector, recovering the copper washers - there's two on each of them. Then release the fuelpipe from the top of the incjector (17mm spanner). Then you release the nut on the holding plate each injector (13mm socket).

The injectors will probably sit pretty firm in the engine head - they are not threaded. First release the injector using a spanner on the plain sides of the injectors, just wiggling until it feels a bit loose. Use a polygrip or smth on the rounded edge of the injector, and wiggle while trying to pull upwards. Using the polygrip on the rounded edge is done to prevent scratching the injector where the banjobolts are fastened. 

When you pull them up, line the as #1, #2, # 3, and #4 - checking for the copper washer that seals in the bottom. Usually, it sits firmly on the injector. They are not supposed to be renewed...

Testing procedure is simple: Injector is put on a hand pump with a gauge, and diesel is in a container. What they check, is when the diesel is being released - it should be at 200atm first stage. Releasing earlier means the injector is worn. Also, they look for the spray pattern - if it is diffused as a nice spray, and not "spitting". The 200tdi injectors are two-stage, but sadly only few garages have the equipment to test 2.stage opening pressure.

I had only the 1.stage pressure tested. Should have been at 200bar, but opened at approximately 180-185bar. According to this site, a drop in releasing pressure of 200-300psi (~14-21atm) should not give any reduced engine efficiency and performance. This implies injectors are worn, but probably still good enough for some time - but I should expect to purchase new ones in the near future (whatever that means...). Injectors are generally priced at £70+vat+p&p, so this will really set me back!

Refitting is of course a reverse of removing - but: The new copper washers have to be installed if you remembered to purchase them (ERR4621). Else you'll just have to retighten the bolt holding the injector to a bit more than its usual 25NM, and hope it will not leak past them. If, for some reason, you did remember to purchase new copper washers, they are supposed to be in the bottom of the injectors hole in the engine head. Use a screwdriver an let it slide down on it - you'll be able to feel when it reaches its bottom and then you just centre it. Easier done than explained.

Of course, I did not purchase copper washers, so there was a substantial leak of pressure - and a very harsh sound of knocking and a spray of diesel... Ordered two complete sets of washers, just to be sure I had spares next time I need them (stocks of new and used parts are continually rising...).

Replacing water pump

Otto use to leave some stains of black oil in the garage or wherever he's left unattended for some time - coming from gearboxes and engine. After replacing PAS-pump, he's also started staining bright red ATF oil. Then he started also leaving blue spots. Coolant! The water pump is notorious for leaking - obvious if you lean under the vehicle, and looking upwards at the water pump. There is a small drain hole on the pump nose cone, and a small drop was apparent. This is coolant coming past the pump bearings, seeping into the pump cone, and then dripping out through this hole.

New pump was brought over from England by a friend of mine. A good proprietary rad-seal fluid was added to the coolant tank - and it stopped leaking for another month/1500km. Then it started dripping again... So only option left, then, was to actually renew the pump. Go here to learn how to do it.

Check engine timing

The crankshaft and camshaft/injection pump will have to be aligned correctly to enable the engine to work properly. Several jobs need you to set the engine in piston #1 TDC-position, including timing belt renewal. If engine is low in performance, a timing check is also on the list for checks. This is how you do it: Gearbox in neutral and handbrake on. Put a 32mm socket on your favourite ratchet - if you have the viscous fan still on the engine, it will prove difficult to have enough room for you to turn the engine, but it is possible if difficult.  Turn the engine slowly, looking at the crankshaft damper while turning. Somewhere on that damper you will see stamped "TDC" and straight line. This is the timing mark for the crankshaft. This line should line up with a protrusion on the timing cover below/right the water pump. On this picture a white mark has been added to show the "pointer" - and you can clearly see the marking on the crankshaft damper as well.

Now, slide under the vehicle, and look through the drain hole of the clutch bellhousing. You are now looking at the flywheel - and hopefully you see as on the picture: a "cut" going north/south. The flywheel locking tool specified in the manual fits this slot (a 4,7mm twisted drill in a wading plug works just as well).  You now have the crankshaft in #1 TDC, and are ready for the injection pump timing.

There's a round cover, fastened by three bolts (use 9 mm socket) on the timing cover, straight ahead of the injection pump. Remove this. You are now looking at the drive for the injection pump. There's an oval cut in the pulley (and three bolts securing the pulley - which you use when you have to realign the injection pump to the crankshaft) - that is where you check if the timing is correct. Try to insert a 9,5mm twisted drill - if it slots right in while crankshaft is aligned at #1 TDC, injection pump is correctly aligned.

HELP FROM OTHER SITES

Check links-pages. The following links are directed specifically at engine-problems. If you know of links that might be useful, please e-mail me:

Diesel troubleshooting. Absolutely excellent site from Diesel Injection Services. Also see their troubleshooting chart.

Downloadable Workshop manual for 300tdi-engines (zip´ed pdf-format)

Engine Oil Bible: Everything you never thought you'd like to know about engine oils.

Oil Filter Study: Everything you never thought you'd like to know about oil filters.

has some excellent articles on diesel engine technology, and also an article on diesel trouble shooting

Learn about seals and how to detect why it leaks

vanAaken Diesel tuning for more HP and torque

300tdi timing belt change - again from  

THAT 300TDi TIMING BELT PROBLEM

This site does not offer advice or info on the 300tdi engine, but this small section is added for reference, as it is a very common concern among Discovery owners. Problem is a misalignment of sprockets in the front end of 300tdi engines, giving premature timing belt wear and costly failure. A first physical indication of problem is pieces of rubber seen through the timing belt draining hole.

Issue is covered in Land Rover Technical Bulletin 008 dated 25th march 1998 entitled 'Timing Belt Failure - Misalignment', and is widely discussed in both magazines and on a variety of threads on Forums. This is also covered in an article at Internet Land Rover Club.

Below is copied from a thread on the LandRoverEnthusiast Forum. To read the whole thread, you will have to search the Forum. Thread appeared May 2002. This gives the VINs for Discoveries affected, and which kits to use for different VINs to solve problem.