Sticking handbrake

Handbrake don't want to release one misty morning. Had to rev up low gear and diff locked to release the handbrake-drum. Opening the drum, the reason was apparent: lots of rust and dust within it. Cleaned and adjusted to near perfection. Next time I'd place the rear on axle-stands - it does take more time than you think to work it through…especially if you do what I did: assembled some items of the expander assembly wrongly, realizing it while trying to adjust the whole thing - i.e. when all but the prop-shaft was back in business..

Change of brake pads

1. Jack vehicle, place on axle stands
2. Remove roadwheels
3. Work on one wheel at a time
4. Wipe off the calipers and clean them
5. Locate the wiring for warn of worn brake pads - remember position (use to be inner right).
6. Withdraw the cotter pins, catch the anti-rattle springs
7. Use a decent plier and try to lift off each of the brake pads. If it "sits" to good, use a screwdriver and carefully work it out of the caliper
8. Loosen top of brake cylinder reservoir, and place a rag on top of it
9. Use a C-clamp and push the pistons back into the caliper to make room for new pads. If it can't be pushed back by light force, do NOT attempt to push hard to get it in, or you'll only make things worse. Because: Your up to do a caliper piston overhaul...
10. Cover the back and sides of the new pad with copper-grease or the like, and slide it into the caliper
11. Place anti-rattle springs on top, push cotter spring in, and "open" it.
12. Repeat on other wheels
13. Put top on brake reservoir back on.
14. Wheels back on, lower to ground, FINISH

Seized rear brake pistons

Renewing rear brake pads, it became apparent that corrosion etc. prevented both the inner pistons to be pushed all the way back into its caliper bore. They could only be pushed back as far as holding a worn pad…  So: if changing brake pads, and the pistons can't be pushed all the way back by applying light force - leave it there, and go for a caliper overhaul - do not apply force on it, it will only make things worse: you want it out (which will prove difficult), not further in (where it will not do any good anyway). If it has not started leaking yet, pushing the corroded piston through the seals might make it start leaking, and scratching the bore is of no use. What you want is to have the piston out of the bore to change it, not push it further in (and maybe having even greater problems removing it) - as it will probably not move anyway: if you need excessive force to move it, it will not move by the force of the brakefluid... The calipers are then in need of overhauling, implying a change of pistons and seals. Read this for details on procedure of repair.

Picture shows a corroded caliper piston.  Courtesy Wod's RR site

Wods Range Rover site has a pictorial on restoring brake caliper (RR, front caliper)

Bleeding the brakes

After the change of 2 brakehoses, a total bleeding of brakesystem was needed - anyway the brakefluid is supposed to be renewed in intervals of a year and a half, so renewing after a year isn't that bad.

Tools needed:

• You'll need spanners for the bleedscrews (11mm).
• A pressure bleeding kit will ease the operation to a great extent.
• 2 bottles to drain fluid into, with transparent hose/lines
• Brakefluid (buy small bottles of 0,5 liter, as the fluid is hygroscopic and any fluid left in can will have to be thrown away anyway - or buy a litre plus one 0,5 litre)

The rear caliper has one bleed screw, and the front has three: one inside and one outside (opposing each other), and one "primary" bleedscrew (the one seeming to be totally on its own at top inside).

The LR Factory Manual and the Haynes manual gives differing advice on the sequence. One should start with the bleedscrew farthest away from mastercylinde/fluid reservoir, and going thorugh the stages of getting closer and closer to the reservoir. I did it the factory way, which is this for LHD:

Left Rear caliper Right Rear caliper Front Right primary + inside bleed screw Front Right primary + outside bleed screw Front Left primary + inside bleed screw Front Left primary + outside bleed screw

I spent slightly above 1 litre to bleed the whole circuit, which is pretty much (guess the reservoir takes 0,5 liter), but this can probably be attibuted to three facts: 1) Lots of air in system due to front left being emptied and left open when renewing hoses,  2) incompetence and 3) the Gunson Eezi Bleed Kit had a leak so a certain amount of fluid was splattered all around the engine bay

More help on brake-jobs

Change of rear brake discs: Wods Range Rover site has a good pictorial procedure

Vented discs/rotors increase brake efficiency. Reuse your modified calipers, and install vented discs for a fairly low price: £60+vat+freight etc.. Autoland 4x4  sells a spacerkit to modify calipers (along with longer bolts and 8 seals) - purchase discs/rotors/pads locally (their kit is not covered on their site, so you'll need to mail/call them for info)..

Bleeding brakes part 1  and Bleeding brakes part 2 (pdf-versions of newsletter from Northern California Rover Club)